Our Spanish journey began in Cuenca, a small town with a population of around 55,000 people. You might have heard of its sister city in Ecuador, which was founded by Spanish conquistadors. The Ecuadorian Cuenca was named after the Spanish one, as the Viceroy of Peru, Andres Hurtado de Mendoza, who was originally from the province of Cuenca in Spain, sought to honour his homeland by naming the new city after it.
Spanish Cuenca is located in the central part of the country, in the autonomous community of Castilla-La Mancha. It is renowned for its unique architecture and picturesque views, particularly the famous "Hanging Houses" (Casas Colgadas) built on the edge of cliffs above the Huecar River. The city also attracts tourists with its old town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its narrow streets, mediaeval buildings, and numerous bridges create a special atmosphere that transports visitors back in time.
In this post, I'll share what you absolutely must visit in Cuenca in one day. Let's delve deeper into what makes Cuenca such a captivating destination, especially for those with limited time to explore. In just one day, there are several key sights and experiences that you simply can't miss.
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HOW TO GET TO CUENCA
Spanish Cuenca is located 140 km from the capital, Madrid. There are three ways to get from Madrid to Cuenca: by train, bus, or car. During our trip, we tried two options: we took the high-speed Renfe Ave train to Cuenca (1 hour and 4 minutes from Chamartin station) and returned by Avanza bus (2 hours and 30 minutes to Estacion Sur in Madrid). Both options have their pros and cons, and I couldn't pick a favourite.
On one hand, the high-speed train gets you to Cuenca faster – just one hour – but it's significantly more expensive, especially if you buy your ticket close to the travel date with Renfe. Prices go significantly up as the travel date approaches. However, the budget train OuiGo started stopping in Cuenca on its way to Valencia, and tickets cost from 9 euros one way. Additionally, from the train station in Cuenca, you'll need to take the local bus L1 to the city centre, which only comes every half hour. Make sure to have small change ready! Tickets cost 1.5 euros per person and can be paid for in cash only.
On the other hand, the intercity bus takes 1.5 hours longer, but the price is much lower compared to the train. You can buy a ticket right before departure on the BusBud website, and the price will be the same as if you bought it a month in advance. I also noticed that some locals buy bus tickets just before boarding from the driver or at the ticket office, so you can use that option too. The bus station is closer to Cuenca's Old Town, and you can walk to Plaza Mayor, although it's uphill, or take the same L1 bus, which stops in front of the bus station.
WHERE TO STAY IN CUENCA
Cuenca offers a variety of accommodation options for every taste: you can book a hostel, a simple apartment, or a luxurious hotel in a former monastery. During my stay in Spain, I really wanted to experience a "hostal" to evaluate this Spanish concept. In short, a hostal is something between a hotel and a hostel, like a budget guesthouse similar to a Bed & Breakfast, often run by a local family.
We stayed at Hostal San Pedro, just a 3-minute walk from Plaza Mayor. It's important to note that the city is located on hills, so we had to walk uphill on cobblestone streets every time. It didn't bother us, but it could be a challenge for some, so keep that in mind. This applies to all accommodations near Plaza Mayor and Casas Colgadas. We really enjoyed staying in the hostal; we had a cozy room with a private bathroom and a small balcony. It was simple and comfortable, without any frills. On the ground floor of the hostal, there was a small "self-service bar" with a microwave, kettle, and coffee machine with all the essentials.
EXPLORE CUENCA
So, what is there to do in Cuenca? Of course, you should stroll through the narrow winding streets, explore the medieval architecture and enjoy the stunning views from the hills.
The main attraction in every small Spanish town is the Plaza Mayor. Cuenca is no exception. On the town's main square stands the beautiful Catedral de Santa Maria y San Julian de Cuenca. It is considered the first Gothic cathedral in Spain. Inside, there is an interesting interpretation of the Last Supper, but there is an entrance fee (5,5€).
Another major attraction in Cuenca is the "Hanging Houses" (Casas Colgadas), which literally "hang" over the cliff of the Huecar River. These houses were built in the 14th-15th centuries and still impress with their architectural uniqueness. One of them houses the Museum of Abstract Art.
From the hanging houses, a metal pedestrian bridge over the Huecar Gorge (Puente de San Pablo) leads to the San Pablo Monastery (Convento de San Pablo). The bridge was built only in the early 20th century, and it offers impressive views of the gorge and the hanging houses. The monastery with the same name is now an luxury hotel where you can book a room and enjoy a pleasant stay.
However, the best views are not from the bridge, but of the bridge. For example, from the ruins of Cuenca Castle (Castillo), a historical structure built during the Moorish period. Although only ruins remain, it continues to be an important city landmark. From the ruins, you get magnificent views of the city, the San Pablo Bridge, the monastery and the surrounding landscapes. The key is to look not from the ruins but from the rocks behind them. And don't forget to spot the eyes on the nearby mountains. Yes, the hills are watching you, haha!
Not far from Plaza Mayor, there is another interesting square — Plaza Mangana. During archaeological excavations on the square, remains of ancient structures were found. Nowadays, the square is used both as a viewing platform for tourists and as a public space for locals. For example, when we were there, a children's birthday party was being celebrated.
On the square, there is also the Mangana Tower (Torre de Mangana). The tower was built in the 16th century on the site of an old Moorish fortification. For centuries, it served as an important watchtower, from which the surroundings could be monitored and the town protected. The Tower was closed when we visited. I read online that you can climb the tower for free. We weren't too disappointed, as by that time we had already climbed all the nearby viewpoints and seen the city from various angles.
Unfortunately, we couldn't visit another intriguing place — the Alfonso VIII Tunnel (Tunel de Alfonso VIII). It was under reconstruction. The underground passage is located right under Plaza Mangana. The tunnel was built in the 17th century and was originally used as a means of protection and shelter for the town's residents. Nowadays, the tunnel serves as a tourist attraction. It allows you to learn more about the town's history and see unique underground structures. Visitors can walk through the tunnel and learn about its history and how it was used in different historical periods.
Interestingly, you can see a lot of bars on the windows in Cuenca. The bars allow the windows to be left open, providing ventilation and daylight access while protecting against intrusion. In Cuenca, as in other Spanish towns, the bars often feature decorative elements and intricate designs. One of the main reasons for installing bars on windows is to protect against theft and break-ins. In old towns like Cuenca, where the streets are narrow and windows are often close to pedestrian areas, the bars help prevent unauthorized access to homes.
WHERE TO FIND LOOKOUT POINTS FOR BREATHTAKING VIEWS
To fall in love with the city, you must look at it from above. For Cuenca, this rule works perfectly. In my opinion, you can admire beautiful views from almost any point in the old town and around any corner, but for the most stunning ones, you should head to the following places:
- Mirador Cuenca
- Muralla y Arco de Bezudo
- Mirador de Florencio Canas
- San Pablo Bridge and Vistas de Cuenca
- Mirador de Mangana
HOW TO CLIMB UP THE CERRO DEL SOCORRO
For even cooler views, you can climb Cerro del Socorro mountain. From its summit, there is a breathtaking panorama of Cuenca and its surroundings, including the historic city center, the gorges of the Huecar and Jucar rivers, as well as the picturesque landscapes of Castilla-La Mancha. Particularly impressive is the view of the "Hanging houses" (Casas Colgadas) and the medieval streets of the city. Additionally, at the top of the mountain, there is a statue of Christ, reminiscent of the famous statue in Rio de Janeiro, which is itself an interesting sight and visible from almost any part of the city.
Cerro del Socorro mountain is an excellent place for hiking. The path to the summit is relatively easy and suitable for most travellers. The trail begins behind the San Pablo Monastery, and the path is accompanied by stone stations for pilgrims.
WHAT ELSE TO SEE NEAR CUENCA
Cuenca is surrounded by magnificent nature, including natural parks and reserves. It's especially worth mentioning Sierra de Cuenca, where you can find amazing rock formations, waterfalls and caves. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to visit the "La Ciudad Encantada" and "Ventano del Diablo" rocks, which are located 24 and 34 km from Cuenca, respectively. You can only get there by car or with a guided tour. The tour takes place on Mondays and Saturdays.
WHERE TO EAT IN CUENCA: A REVIEW OF THE GROTTE DEL HUÉCAR CAVE BAR
To be honest, we weren't lucky with restaurants and cafes in Cuenca. Either they didn't want to seat us at cafes or the restaurants were overcrowded, so I don't really have much to say about Spanish food in Cuenca. We mostly ate Spanish snacks from the supermarket - empanadas and pastries. Despite the unsuccessful first experience with cafes, we still decided to try our luck and go to the Grotte del Huecar bar. The peculiarity of this bar is that it is located in a real cave. However, it's not really a bar, as Google Maps says, but a family restaurant. People come there not so much for drinks as for a full meal. We tried croquettes and sangria. In my opinion, the prices in this place are inflated, but the experience was interesting and the atmosphere was truly unusual.
TO SUM UP
Our journey to Cuenca truly immersed us in the Spanish atmosphere, especially since communication in English was rare here. This quaint town with its unique architecture, medieval streets and breathtaking landscapes left an unforgettable impression. Despite some transportation challenges and the need to climb steep streets, Cuenca fully met our expectations. We are delighted that we chose Cuenca as the first city for our inaugural trip to Spain. The journey was comfortable but with elements of exotic.
We had the opportunity to see the famous "Hanging houses", enjoy the cozy local hostels, and stroll through ancient streets steeped in history. Cuenca surprises with a combination of picturesque natural landscapes and architectural heritage, making it an ideal destination for a day trip. If I were to spend one day in Cuenca, I would start with the "Mirador Cuenca" and descend, stopping at each viewpoint along the way. Then, I would visit the "Plaza Mayor" and "Casas Colgadas" with the "Puente San Pablo," ascend to the "Cerro del Socorro," return for lunch at the "Plaza Mayor" and continue through the "Plaza de Mangana" tunnels, and descend to the "Grotte del Huecar" bar.
Cuenca is a bright example of how to combine rich history and modern comfort, making it a must-visit destination on the itinerary through Spain. I hope that my tips and impressions will help you plan your trip and discover all the beauty and charm of Cuenca.
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